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PCB Mounted DC Connecter
Topic Rating: 4.8Topic Rating: 4.8Topic Rating: 4.8Topic Rating: 4.8Topic Rating: 4.8 Topic Rating: 4.8 (4 votes) 
2012/01/21
23:11
naytf

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2012/01/08
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This part broke on mine as well. It does not really matter wht you switch it to as long as you have a DC converter between the wall and the unit. I had a USB cable hanging out the side of mine for a while. Thank you for the part number now I can make it right. Mines all tweeker fied for the moment. Oh and I shorted mine on accident and the system has a safe guard I think. It sparked then did nothing. I inspected and found nothing wrong but could get no power, nor another spark. Then I hit the power. Nothing. Pushed reset a few times then power. It fired right up. Mines an HSN edition, but I suspect no differences between the standard and mine. FINLESS works OK to well.

2012/02/06
18:38
bravesirrobin

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mobius said

The connector for £8.99 looks exactly the same as I used to repair my tablet.

I got 10 of these for £1.99 + 80p postage. The ebay item number is:

 

Item number: 390369715969

 

As i said in my previous post, these fit the board perfectly, but you may need to make the hole in the casing very slightly bigger with a craft knife or small file, so the connector is held firmly by the casing when you screw it back together. The finished repair is very neat and probably stronger than the original, plus I have 9 sparesSmile

When doing the repair, be very careful with the 2 ribbon cables from the screen, as if you break these they are not repairable. also I unsoldered the 3 battery wires one at a time and insulated them with tape, as where you are soldering the connector, the pads are connected to the battery and you could cause a short circuit with your soldering iron tip if you leave the battery connected.

Mobius.

Great info, have ordered to replace my dodgy arnova connector. Out of curiousity how easy would it be to replace the connector with a micro usb socket or even connect the internal charging points to the current microusb socket already installed?

2012/02/06
18:44
admin

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JMI Pulse 10
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bravesirrobin said

mobius said

The connector for £8.99 looks exactly the same as I used to repair my tablet.

I got 10 of these for £1.99 + 80p postage. The ebay item number is:

 

Item number: 390369715969

 

As i said in my previous post, these fit the board perfectly, but you may need to make the hole in the casing very slightly bigger with a craft knife or small file, so the connector is held firmly by the casing when you screw it back together. The finished repair is very neat and probably stronger than the original, plus I have 9 sparesSmile

When doing the repair, be very careful with the 2 ribbon cables from the screen, as if you break these they are not repairable. also I unsoldered the 3 battery wires one at a time and insulated them with tape, as where you are soldering the connector, the pads are connected to the battery and you could cause a short circuit with your soldering iron tip if you leave the battery connected.

Mobius.

Great info, have ordered to replace my dodgy arnova connector. Out of curiousity how easy would it be to replace the connector with a micro usb socket or even connect the internal charging points to the current microusb socket already installed?

I am not sure rewiring the existing micro USB is the easiest route and the plug/connectors are quite tiny. On the other hand, replacing the power connector by a female microUSB would make it easier to charge, getting rid of the "proprietary" connector.

Some info about USB/micro USB wiring:

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/usb4.htm

http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml

 

If you give it a shot, please try to post some pictures here ;)

If you like our web site, applications and firmwares, feel free to support our site. Donations are used to pay the bills for our server hosting costs, development tools and purchase new tablets to support.

2012/02/06
19:13
bravesirrobin

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admin said

 

The connector for £8.99 looks exactly the same as I used to repair my tablet.

 

I got 10 of these for £1.99 + 80p postage. The ebay item number is:

 

Item number: 390369715969

 

As i said in my previous post, these fit the board perfectly, but you may need to make the hole in the casing very slightly bigger with a craft knife or small file, so the connector is held firmly by the casing when you screw it back together. The finished repair is very neat and probably stronger than the original, plus I have 9 sparesSmile

 

When doing the repair, be very careful with the 2 ribbon cables from the screen, as if you break these they are not repairable. also I unsoldered the 3 battery wires one at a time and insulated them with tape, as where you are soldering the connector, the pads are connected to the battery and you could cause a short circuit with your soldering iron tip if you leave the battery connected.

 

Mobius.

 

Great info, have ordered to replace my dodgy arnova connector. Out of curiousity how easy would it be to replace the connector with a micro usb socket or even connect the internal charging points to the current microusb socket already installed?

 

I am not sure rewiring the existing micro USB is the easiest route and the plug/connectors are quite tiny. On the other hand, replacing the power connector by a female microUSB would make it easier to charge, getting rid of the "proprietary" connector.

 

Some info about USB/micro USB wiring:

 

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/usb4.htm

 

http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml

 

If you give it a shot, please try to post some pictures here ;)

————————————————————————————————-

Thanks for the links, will certainly have a go if it means I can avoid carrying around another charger (my other gadgets all charge from microusb!) I haven't got my Arnova 10 apart yet to see how much room there is. I can see the 6 screws in the case, are there any under the rubber feet?

Last edited by bravesirrobin on 2012/02/06 - 20:29

2012/02/09
12:42
mobius

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Hi all,

Here are some tips on taking your 10G2 apart and replacing the power connector.

Remove the screws from the back of the unit. There are no screws under the feet, just the six that you can see. Where the case is slightly thicker at one end, the two screws in the middle are a little longer than the other four. make sure that you replace these in the correct order, as if you put the longer screws in the wrong holes they will make a mark on the front of your tablet.

When you have the screws out, you need to carefully prise the casing apart,as it is clipped together along the edges. I managed to do it with my fingernails but you could try using a small screwdiver or maybe get a pry apart tool from ebay for a few pence.

When you have separated the two halves of the casing, be carefull not to pull them too far apart as they are joined by two flexible ribbon cables from the screen (the wide one is for video signal, the narrow is the touchscreen) and a single black wire.

When I did mine, I unsoldered the three battery wires from the main board first to prevent short circuits etc. they are red black and white. make a drawing of which wire goes where as you dont want to put them back in the wrong order and be sure to insulate each one with tape as you take them off to prevent them touching together.

If you want to disconnect the screen ribbon cables ( I did, to make it easier to work on the board) do the following:

Carefully peel back the orange tape covering the wide ribbon on the main board

carefully peel back the foam rubber strip underneath the tape that covers the connector

Gently prise up the connector from the bottom where it sits against the board, from first one end then the other untill it pops off

Now you will be able to see the narrow touch screen ribbon connector

Carfully peel back the tape covering the connector

where the ribbon enters the connector, at the front edge, you will see a tiny clip that holds the ribbon in place

Very gently prise this clip up from the front edge of the connector using a small screwdriver or similar tool, being carefull not to damage or cut the ribbon cable. The clip is held from the back and should stay attached to the connector.

When the clip has hinged up, you will be able to pull the ribbon out of the connector, it should come easily, if it is still tight, make sure that the clip is hinged up. 

There is a black wire soldered to the metal screening on the main board, unsolder this making a note of where it came from.

Now the two halves of the tablet can be separated.

Unsolder the red and black speaker wires from the board, making a drawing of where they came from.

Remove the screws holding the board to the casing

Carefully remove the black plastic cover that sits over the switches and ports etc on the side, by lifting it upwards, as the camera and volume up/down and power buttons are held in place by this.

Keep the buttons safe, making a note of how they fit in the casing, and which way round they go back

You can now remove the board from the casing.

 

I used some desolder braid to remove the solder from the damaged power connector, you can get this from ebay or an electronics repair shop quite cheaply. You may have to prise the connector up while heating the joints to ease it out of the board, but be carefull not to damage the board with too much force.

After you have fitted and soldered the new connector, make sure that there is no solder bridging the joints that will cause a short circuit.

If you are using the same connector that I used (see previous post) you may have to make the hole in the casing slightly bigger with a small file or craft knife.

 

After that, put everything back together in the reverse order, with the battery wires being the last and test the unit. If all is well and touch screen is working etc, you can put the two halves together and you are done!

If the touch screen does not work, it is likely that you have not quite got the ribbon cable fully in the socket, go back and do it again, making sure that the tiny clip is fully down on the connector. (I had to as did not get it first go)

Hope this is some help to someone, if my connector breaks again, I will take some pics of the whole process and post them on the forum (wish I had done it in the first place now)

Mobius.

The following users say thank you to mobius for this useful post:

Gregorius
2012/02/11
14:28
steafler

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Hi mobius,

Thank you for the info on how to disassemble arnova 10 g2. I have a broken screen as I mentioned in other topic and I am trying to replace it. I am out of country now and I do not have the tablet with me so I am unable to disassemble my tablet. I would like to ask you guys if it is possible to tell me the make and part number of the lcd. I would really appreciate it as I am going to china in couple of days and I may get lucky and find the lcd using the information.

 

Thanks 

2012/05/19
02:45
dowser

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Forum Posts: 1
Member Since:
2012/05/19
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mobius said
Hi all,

Here are some tips on taking your 10G2 apart and replacing the power connector.

Remove the screws from the back of the unit. There are no screws under the feet, just the six that you can see. Where the case is slightly thicker at one end, the two screws in the middle are a little longer than the other four. make sure that you replace these in the correct order, as if you put the longer screws in the wrong holes they will make a mark on the front of your tablet.

When you have the screws out, you need to carefully prise the casing apart,as it is clipped together along the edges. I managed to do it with my fingernails but you could try using a small screwdiver or maybe get a pry apart tool from ebay for a few pence.

When you have separated the two halves of the casing, be carefull not to pull them too far apart as they are joined by two flexible ribbon cables from the screen (the wide one is for video signal, the narrow is the touchscreen) and a single black wire.

When I did mine, I unsoldered the three battery wires from the main board first to prevent short circuits etc. they are red black and white. make a drawing of which wire goes where as you dont want to put them back in the wrong order and be sure to insulate each one with tape as you take them off to prevent them touching together.

If you want to disconnect the screen ribbon cables ( I did, to make it easier to work on the board) do the following:

Carefully peel back the orange tape covering the wide ribbon on the main board

carefully peel back the foam rubber strip underneath the tape that covers the connector

Gently prise up the connector from the bottom where it sits against the board, from first one end then the other untill it pops off

Now you will be able to see the narrow touch screen ribbon connector

Carfully peel back the tape covering the connector

where the ribbon enters the connector, at the front edge, you will see a tiny clip that holds the ribbon in place

Very gently prise this clip up from the front edge of the connector using a small screwdriver or similar tool, being carefull not to damage or cut the ribbon cable. The clip is held from the back and should stay attached to the connector.

When the clip has hinged up, you will be able to pull the ribbon out of the connector, it should come easily, if it is still tight, make sure that the clip is hinged up. 

There is a black wire soldered to the metal screening on the main board, unsolder this making a note of where it came from.

Now the two halves of the tablet can be separated.

Unsolder the red and black speaker wires from the board, making a drawing of where they came from.

Remove the screws holding the board to the casing

Carefully remove the black plastic cover that sits over the switches and ports etc on the side, by lifting it upwards, as the camera and volume up/down and power buttons are held in place by this.

Keep the buttons safe, making a note of how they fit in the casing, and which way round they go back

You can now remove the board from the casing.

 

I used some desolder braid to remove the solder from the damaged power connector, you can get this from ebay or an electronics repair shop quite cheaply. You may have to prise the connector up while heating the joints to ease it out of the board, but be carefull not to damage the board with too much force.

After you have fitted and soldered the new connector, make sure that there is no solder bridging the joints that will cause a short circuit.

If you are using the same connector that I used (see previous post) you may have to make the hole in the casing slightly bigger with a small file or craft knife.

 

After that, put everything back together in the reverse order, with the battery wires being the last and test the unit. If all is well and touch screen is working etc, you can put the two halves together and you are done!

If the touch screen does not work, it is likely that you have not quite got the ribbon cable fully in the socket, go back and do it again, making sure that the tiny clip is fully down on the connector. (I had to as did not get it first go)

Hope this is some help to someone, if my connector breaks again, I will take some pics of the whole process and post them on the forum (wish I had done it in the first place now)

Mobius.

Thanks Mobious – this helped me replace a friends one.  Some photos below you may want to include in your posting above; poor quality iPhone pics though, sorry.

 

I initially tried leaving the ribbon connectors connected – failed miserably, but at least the weakest point were the connectors themselves – the large one popped off, small one pulled out (luckily lifting the tab first!).  I definitely recommend removing the ribbon cables before attempting this again. They are pretty easy to reconnect. 

Of the 3 socket pins, the one on the inside of the board was a complete pig to unsolder – it connects straight to ground plane which acts as a huge heatsink – I ended up cutting the pins after prizing the front end of the socket up a bit.  Complete pain in the ass job TBH – I got 2 replacement sockets as I see this is a common problem, but no way am I doing it next time it gets broken :)

Richard

 

Damn – no embedded image linking – and they are too big to upload…sorry, you'll need to click on the links!

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7076/7224304486_b74cb5a04a_c.jpg http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5034/7224302336_ff8fd39d42_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/7224297736_d2d3d1d22d_b.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8001/7224299988_e32cf48ce5_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7096/7224323742_891766c012_b.jpg

Admin notes: fixed images, you can use "Insert/Edit Images" in the html editor toolbar…

Last edited by admin on 2012/05/19 - 09:11

2012/10/12
11:26
Chebik

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2012/10/12
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Arnova 10 G2
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This is my way to zero-cost repairing of DC Connector, with photo. Please use Google translator (Russian-English): 

http://4pda.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=272444&st=440

Arnova 10G2 with "GingerComb" Finless 2.2b CWM (Pro ROM) --->>LolloBean 2.0 (Jelly Bean 4.1.1)

2013/01/14
16:04
archivistprime

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Sorry to dig up a year-old thread, but since this one is already devoted to my problem I thought it would be best to add to it.

I recently got a 10 G2, and managed to trip over the power cord while it was charging, breaking the pin off inside the charger! I came across the Arctablet forums and have been reviewing what to do… I'll be following the guide above closely when I fix my tablet, but I'm confused about the part I need. Mobius said a PJ26 or PJ039 would work… does that mean this is the part I'm looking for?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-AC-Charger-Port-Power-Jack-for-Compaq-Presario-1500-Series-1538AP-1540AP-/300618664386?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item45fe44c9c2

I ask because the one he used has a pin diameter of 1.3mm and this is 1.65mm. I'd hate to buy a part and install it only to find out the charger doesn't fit anymore or something.

Thanks for any help, it's much appreciated.

2013/02/07
01:29
sroka121279

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2013/01/27
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hello friend ! i just bought arnova 10 g2 on auction 4 of them need dc jack repleace to check them i did charged it with "fixed charger tip" just stick a bit of wire into charger tip and carefull put it in to slot in tablet chargered full check that tablets are ok and now i want to do  repleacement of dc jack (have no clue but i try) and i found this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Technic-TDC-022-1-3MM-PCB-mount-power-jack-socket-10pcs-/251184968810?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11

%26meid%3D5413064711247689260%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%

26rk%3D1%26sd%3D390369715969%26

 

PLEASE !!! if u do the job get in touch with me on forum or priv. i prabobly will have a lot of questions THX

 

 

sorry for broken engilsh

 

2014/01/11
19:20
erdie

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sroka121279 said
hello friend ! i just bought arnova 10 g2 on auction 4 of them need dc jack repleace to check them i did charged it with "fixed charger tip" just stick a bit of wire into charger tip and carefull put it in to slot in tablet chargered full check that tablets are ok and now i want to do  repleacement of dc jack (have no clue but i try) and i found this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Technic-TDC-022-1-3MM-PCB-mount-power-jack-socket-10pcs-/251184968810?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11

%26meid%3D5413064711247689260%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%

26rk%3D1%26sd%3D390369715969%26

 

PLEASE !!! if u do the job get in touch with me on forum or priv. i prabobly will have a lot of questions THX

 

 

sorry for broken engilsh

 

sroka,

 

What did you put in the tip of the charger? I have managed to to cut a paper clip down and bend it, but this is not an ideal solution. But I will look for a thin little nail or pin with a flat head.

 

I don't know if I can be bothered ordering a connector (even if it is only a couple of quid from ebay) and then taking the arnova apart and soldering the new connector.

 

The arnova was my girlfriends and the pin in the connector has been on the blink for ages, it finally gave up a couple of months ago. I got her a new tablet for Christmas, I was going to throw the arnova away, but I thought I would look into the possibility of repairing it.

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